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You are here: Home / Archives for food

food

a week at my table – pistachios

September 25, 2013 by cwilliams

Here’s the longer version of a little guest post I did for the Tucson CSA newsletter for their “A Week At My Table” segment, where CSA members describe how they’ve used their veggies through the week.

From other parts of the country you read phrases like “as the temperature drops”, “packing away my flip-flops” and “now that summer is at an end.” Well, here we’re still in the throes of what most people call Summer and it’ll still be a while before we start indulging in winter squash and (be still my beating heart) mountains of greens. But as we wait for our temperatures to drop, the Tucson sun is giving us lots of seasonal produce to whet our palates now.

CSA Haul for 9/24/2013

Squash – Well, sure of course there’s gonna be squash. But we don’t often get these absolutely adorable baby pattypan squash. They came in a variety pack this time – green globes, grey-green flying saucers, striped ridged tutus. They were almost a shame to eat. Almost. I gazed at them lovingly and then took a knife and carved them into eighths. My favorite thing to do with summer squash is my favorite thing to do with most vegetables: roast them in olive oil, salt and pepper. Since they were so young, they didn’t take too long and their skins were oh-so-brown and carmelized – just delectable with marinated chicken breasts cooked in foil pouches in the same oven.

[Read more…] about a week at my table – pistachios

Filed Under: csa, food

a week at my table

July 3, 2013 by cwilliams

The Tucson CSA asked me to write an installment of their frequent newsletter section, ‘A Week At My Table’. Here was the harvest in question:

CSA Summer Harvest

Oops, and a summer CSA harvest picture isn’t complete without this fruit diva popping up!

Watermelon Photobomb

It’s summertime and the blowsy abundance of winter greens and roots, which usually required me to bring two bags, have given way to the more heat-tolerant vegetables: squash, small onions, potatoes…and some big ol’ watermelons! This week’s harvest also included some newbies to my cooking repertoire: Elote Blanco (white Mexican corn) and White Wonder cucumbers.

Last week’s sweet corn was heavenly and I know very well how I like it (classic: boil in water til tender, then eat off the cob or toss kernels into a potato salad). But this week’s corn is the white variety, ie not sweet but more like hominy grits, starchy and better suited for a savory sauce. Which is what I did using the CSA recipe for Calabacitas. I simmered a few of the Glendale Gold onions with garlic, then diced summer squash, the yellow and cherry tomatoes  from my share, some Serrano chiles from the garden and kernels of the white corn cut from the cob. After cooking, I then tossed in cilantro and feta cheese. I am hooked on calabacitas now – the sweetness of the squash melds well with the spices and the white corn has a plump, toothsome texture.

I was told that the White Wonder cucumbers were a little on the bitter side and that I should peel the skin, scoop and discard the seeds and cook them. The newsletter handily included a recipe for Cucumber Coconut Milk Curry. This is another example of how the CSA is a great partner in not only providing your week’s harvest but helping you figure out how to make the most of it. The recipe, by Tony from the CSA, was actually one of the best curries I’ve made yet – a perfect proportion of those lovely Indian spices coriander, turmeric, chile powder and cumin seeds simmered with more Glendale Gold onions, the cucumbers and coconut milk. Spicy but not too spicy and delicious!

For some weird reason, I’ve never bought watermelon before. But in the last two weeks I’ve gotten to know and love them. These luscious globes do have seeds and after some Googling,  I found that it wasn’t too hard to take off the rind, slice it vertically and then break it into chunks, scooping out seeds into another bowl as you go. This resulted in a HUGE bowl of pink flesh which has since become blended into homemade Aqua Fresca: lots of watermelon, juice from a lime, some honey and ice cubes. Refrescante! Or you could do as my friend Molly does and juice it, seeds and all. Any way you take it, it’s the perfect antidote to these hot, hot days.

Oh, and the Red LaSoda potatoes? I actually didn’t get to them this week but they are keeping just fine in my fridge and will become part of a huge potato salad for 4th of July. Happy summer and happy eating!

Thanks, Philippe for asking me to contribute to your fab newsletter again.

But alas, there’s a meal I forgot to include – a summer sausage fry for when you don’t want to spend much time in that kitchen.

This is where the bulk of my tomatoes went – look at this juicy two-tone rainbow:

Tomato Rainbow

It was a simple dish of sauteing sausage, onions and garlic, tipping in the tomatoes to cook until they broke down and cried, then adding a can of cannellini (white northern) beans until warmed through. Throw on some bagged spinach if you got it. Easy peasy and gits yer dinner done fast.

Summer Sausage Fry

Tomorrow is the 4th of July and we’re having a BBQ. I may or may not document the festivities for you, depending entirely on my state of mind (and, er, level of sobriety?) but in any case I hope your celebrations are both fun and safe (especially where things are going boom!)

Love and fireworks,
Cristina

Filed Under: csa, food

neil gaiman’s lemon pancakes

June 25, 2013 by cwilliams

As a reader, a Neil Gaiman fan and a somewhat-foodie, I had to break my recent blog-fast with an unexpected delight: the real-world recipe for the lemon pancakes mentioned in Gaiman’s latest novel, The Ocean At The End of the Lane.

Gaiman writes modern mythology with quirk and wit and I’ve been following him since I read his fantasy epic, American Gods, a couple of years ago. Since then I’ve gobbled up as many of his works as possible (all strangely delicious and deliciously strange). When I first got the new book, I was a little disappointed. It’s so thin! I went straight to the last page and the number was less than 200! That seemed like a mere morsel compared to the extended feast I was anticipating.

The Ocean At The End Of The Lane

Then I read it over the course of this past Saturday and found myself lost in this dark yet comforting tale of a little boy caught up in big world magic. It was a truly satisfying read and I recommend it for all readers who appreciate the fine art of story-telling.

Anyhoo, at some point of the story, our hero is fed lemon pancakes at a Surrey farm and I was charmed by the idea of pancakes with lemon squeezed on them. Lo and behold, just this morning I read an interview with Gaiman that included the recipe. So here you go, I haven’t even tried to makes these yet but I hope to soon!

Nail Gaiman’s Lemon Pancakes

Excerpted in total from Joe Hill’s interview on Omnivoracious.

JH: There’s a lot of wonderful food writing in this book. I had to put the thing down several times to rummage desperately through my fridge. Can you give us the recipe for the Hempstocks’ lemon pancakes? Please don’t let that part be make-believe.

NG: There is no make-believe in cooking. There were few things I took as much fun in cooking, when I was a boy, as pancakes. (I liked making toffee, too, because it was a little like a science experiment.)

Right. The night before you are going to make them, you mix:
1 cup of ordinary white flour
2 eggs
a pinch of salt
2 1/2 cups of milk and water (a cup and a half of milk and a cup of water mixed)
1 tablespoon of either vegetable oil or melted butter

(You’ll also need some granulated sugar, and a couple of lemons to put on the pancakes, along with other things like jams and possibly even maple syrup because you’re American.)

Put the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Crack the eggs in and whisk/fork the egg into the flour. Slowly add the milk/water mixture, stirring as you go, until there are no lumps and you have a liquid the consistency of a not too thick cream.

Then put the mixture in the fridge overnight.

Grease or butter or oil a non-stick frying pan. Heat it until it’s really hot (377 degrees according to one website, but basically, it has to be hot for the pancake to become a pancake. And these are crepes, French style, not thick American round pancakes).

Stir the mixture you just took from the fridge thoroughly because the flour will all be at the bottom. Get an even, consistency.

Then ladle some mixture into the pan, thinly covering the whole of the base of the pan. When the base is golden, flip it (or, if you are brave, toss it). Cook another 30 seconds on the other side.

For reasons I do not quite understand (although pan heat is probably the reason), the first one is always a bit disappointing. Often it’s a burnt, sludgy, weird thing, (always, in my family, eaten by the cook) (which was me). Just keep going, and the rest will be fine.

Sprinkle sugar in the middle. And then squeeze some lemon juice in, preferably from a lemon. Then wrap it like a cigar and feed it to a child.

(You can experiment with other things in the middle, like Nutella, or jam, or even maple syrup–but remember that these pancakes are not syrup-absorbent like American style pancakes.)

Filed Under: food

crazy about cactus

May 29, 2013 by cwilliams

The cool (or sometimes irritating) thing about CSAs is when you’re given something that you would normally ignore if you were in a store or farmer’s market. It takes you out of your rut and makes you think and learn (again, this can be cool or irritating depending on what other craziness you have going on that week). But usually I relish the challenge of figuring out a way to prepare something that I don’t think I like and perhaps actually enjoy it. In this case, it was the ubiquitous – in these parts – nopales. Ie, cactus. In particular, the pad of a prickly pear cactus. Yes, the thing that’s normally covered in hellacious spines of impending pain and suffering should you even go near it. (Jump to the recipe)

Cactus Ears

Before you gasp, let me put your mind at ease: the CSA takes every single itty bit of spine off for you. Which doesn’t stop me from nervously running my finger tips gingerly over the entire surface. Because nothing is more wince-inducing than the mere idea of a cactus spine in your mouth. Shudder. No, these pale green ovals are as smooth as a baby’s behind by the time you get them in your little veggie bag of goodies. So, er, now what?

To start with, nopales have a taste and texture similar to a green bell pepper, but with a citrusy tang to it. So you can chop it up and use it in a stew or even keep it raw for a salad. Sounds nice, right? Except for one other characteristic: an oozing clear slime that exudes from any cut. Seriously, it’s like cactus snot. Shudder violently. Okay, okay, I didn’t mean to completely put you off nopales like that. I may be using a drop more drama than necessary to describe it. Think of it as okra. Tons and tons of people apparently have no problem with okra’s slipperiness – ask thousands of people from Louisiana and others parts of the Deep South. But like sweet iced tea, I just never developed a taste for it.

Cactus Cross Section

So when I was presented with these lovely cactus pads, I figured I had some Googling ahead of me. Surely there must be some way to prepare this desert vegetable so I might actually like it. The one thing that is supposed to do the trick, I haven’t tried yet: grilling. Grilling in general is not a casual every day thing at our house: we don’t have a gas grill and charcoal takes a while to set up and I don’t have the patience most weeknights. So the timing just hasn’t worked out yet. If you want to try it, I believe the strategy is to grill them whole over hot coals for just a few minutes on each side (let me know how it goes!)

But I did find something I didn’t expect: recipes for using cactus in smoothies. Now that seemed like an idea. I tried a couple of different recipes with mixed results until I found the One, the only one that truly cut out the slime factor and has actually become my favorite summertime smoothie. And the simple trick is freezing!

Cactus julienned

First, you julienne the pads (just thinly slice them) and then stick them into a ziploc bag and into the freezer.

Little Green Icicles

Then forget about them like you forget about the majority of the contents of that icy domain. After a couple of weeks, when the weather finally starts getting Tucson hot and you need a lil cooling off, remember about your little green icicles.

The recipe itself, Licuado de Nopal from Muy Bueno Cookbook, is insanely simple – frozen nopales (about half a snack bag’s worth), cucumber, lime juice and water. I adapted it slightly to add some honey and used more cucumber. Also, the cucumber was an Armenian cucumber.

Armenian Cucumber

You may not be familiar with these kinds of cukes. They’re a staple of the summer CSA because unlike their English counterparts, they can handle our hot, dry weather. They’re a little crunchier than regular cucumbers and you don’t have to peel them.

Pouring Cactus

Ah, this is the definition of a summer drink. Very fresh, no slipperiness and if you added something sweet and luscious like pineapple or even mango, it could only be amazing. As is, it’s an extremely refreshing and surprisingly healthy way to start the day. According to the post:

This cactus smoothie is choc-full of antioxidants like vitamins A, C, and B, cleanses the liver and colon and provides an uber-rich source of fiber and hydration.

 Licuado de Nopal

¡Refrescante!

As my stash of green icicles rapidly dwindles, I’m keeping my eye open for more nopales in the market. Heck, I might even get the nerve to try to harvest some from the prickly patch in our front yard. Or not.

Licuado de Nopal (Cactus Smoothie)

Adapted slightly from Muy Bueno Cookbook

1/2 cup nopal (cactus pads cleaned, spines removed), julienned and frozen
3/4 Armenian cucumber (or 1 English cucumber, peeled) chopped
1 lime, juiced
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup crushed ice
1 Tablespoon honey or 1/2 T agave nectar

Store julienned nopal in snack bags in the freezer. To make one smoothie use only half the bag of nopal.

Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend. If you want it to be less chunky then blend longer and or add more water.

As the (locally) famous song goes: Florida’s got beaches, We got cactus

Filed Under: csa, food

mexican lasagna

May 3, 2013 by cwilliams

(Jump right to the recipe)

Easter is a major holiday in my family. Ever since I can remember, Daddy has organized a huge Easter egg hunt in the backyard for all the little kids (and some of the big kids) in our family and extended family. He and Mami spend all year picking up knick knacks and fun stuff as prizes and we gather together over a field of newspapers on the dining room table to dye a mountain of eggs and eat Cubanitos (little Cuban sandwiches) from Publix. It’s a grand tradition that’s really difficult for me to miss – so even though I was just there in the winter, Jamie and I made the Easter trip to Jacksonville this spring.

Easter was early this year – at the end of March, which is a gorgeous time to be in North Florida. We still missed the azaleas and dogwoods blooming in shades of fuchsia, pink and cream (sigh) but the temperature was gentle, the sun was smiling and it was a great time to be by the water. When us desert dwellers find ourselves anywhere near a body of water, we get our fill of seafood at every turn possible. So Mami and Daddy took us to one of our favorite seafood shacks, Singleton’s, nestled in the docks of Mayport, a protected harbor where pelicans and sea gulls make themselves at home on the quirky-cute shrimp boats.

Shrimp Boat at Mayport

Shrimp Boat Up Close

My mother admiring the boats

There’s my lovely mother admiring the ships. Maritime ogling aside, this post is about a dish I started making here in Tucson that I decided to cook to round out the Easter buffet feast that runs alongside the egg hunt. As Jamie and I headed back to my parents house after a short but sweet dalliance at Neptune Beach, I was racking my brain for an easy but crowd-pleasing dish I could offer up. When I brought this up in the car, speeding past pines trees and magnolias and marshland, Jamie immediately blurted two words: “Mexican lasagna”. Of course! The guest list had been piling up and I knew that there would be some surprise (but still very welcome) pop-ins. Mexican lasagna would be the perfect culinary secret weapon.

I discovered this delish dish on, of course, The Pioneer Woman. It’s actually a recipe of a friend of hers, whom she lovingly calls ‘Pastor Ryan’. It uses the layering concept of a lasagna but with Mexican ingredients: tortillas instead of noodles, taco beef instead of bolognese sauce, Mexican cheese mix instead of ricotta, you get the idea. The original recipe makes a huge amount and I usually halve it to fill my normal pan. But I figured I’d cook up the whole recipe this time, using two lasagna pans (the disposable kind from the grocery store since I couldn’t find the right size pan in my parents’ kitchen). It’s one of those totally fun dishes, it takes a while getting the rice and beef ready, but it’s easy and the layering process makes it almost like a craft project.

Mexican Rice with Black Beans

Assembling the "Lasagna"

Mexican Lasagna

I slightly tweaked the recipe, mostly with how I make the rice. The result was plenty of groans – exactly the desired effect. I gotta tell you, though, I had some fierce competition with my sister-in-law Donna’s orzo salad (Greek heaven!), the glazed ham, Mrs. Sullivan’s deviled eggs and Diane’s heavenly corn pudding.

The Williams' Easter Buffet

More and more people kept showing up, but nobody went hungry that day. Plus there were leftovers for my folks – mission accomplished.

This is a bit overdue, so at the request of several of this year’s Easter attendees, here’s how I made it. It looks a little long and definitely requires some time, but it’ll be worth it!

Pastor Ryan’s Mexican Lasagna

Adapted from The Pioneer Woman

Makes two lasagna pans of food and serves a bazillion

3-4 Tablespoons butter
1 onion, chopped
4-8 cloves garlic, minced (depending on your preference)
4 cups long grain rice
2 cans diced tomatoes, with liquid (14.5 oz cans)
1 can diced green hatch chilies, with liquid (4 oz can)
6 cups low sodium Chicken Broth/stock, maybe more if rice is dry
Taco Seasoning: chili powder, paprika, and cumin or use a spice mix
Chopped cilantro, to taste
1 can black beans (Goya or some other Latin American brand preferably)
3 pounds lean ground beef
2 jars (16 oz) salsa verde
1 package flour tortillas (need at least 8, maybe more)
3 packages (16 oz) Mexican cheese mix
1 jar (16 oz) enchilada sauce
Sour Cream, to taste

1. Prepare the Mexican rice:

  • Heat butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat.
  • Add onions and cook for 3 to 4 minutes.
  • Reduce heat to low and add garlic and rice. Stir constantly, making sure the rice doesn’t burn, but you want all the grains coated in butter and slightly toasted. Cook over low heat for 3 minutes.
  • Add tomatoes and hatch chilies. Stir to combine and let cook for 2 minutes.
  • Add broth and stir to mix. Then add some salt and stir in the following spices (if you’re not big on spiciness, then start smaller and add to taste):  3 tablespoons chili powder, 1 ½ tablespoon, paprika and 1 ½ tablespoon of cumin.
  • Bring to a boil. Take the heat back down to low, cover and simmer for 10 to 15 additional minutes or until rice is done. After the first 10 minutes, take a peek and add more liquid as needed – the liquids from the tomatoes and chilies should be enough but keep an eye on it and see if the rice is looking dry. If so, add a cup more of broth/stock.
  • When you’re satisfied the rice is done, turn off the heat and let it sit for a about 10 minutes.
  • Stir in the chopped cilantro.

2. Prepare the  taco beef:

  • In a large skillet, brown the ground beef over medium heat until the pink is gone.
  • Add the taco seasoning, again about 3 tablespoons chili powder, 1 ½ tablespoon, paprika and 1 ½ tablespoon of cumin and salt to taste.
  • Add about 4-6 ounces of water (you can use the hatch chilies can to measure).
  • Stir and simmer for a few minutes until everything’s incorporated and hot, then turn off the heat.

3. Assemble the lasagna across the two lasagna pans in this order:

  • Spread one container of salsa verde in the bottom of both pans (so that’s half a container per pan).
  • Layer on tortillas. Some overlapping is expected. Sometimes I tear one in half to butt up flat against the side of the pan, but it doesn’t really matter.
  • Half of the rice mixture (a quarter of the rice per pan)
  • Half of the cheese (3/4s of a bag per pan)
  • Add another layer of tortillas
  • Pour enchilada sauce over the tortillas and spread it out evenly (half a jar per pan)
  • Add layer of browned ground beef (one layer per pan – you may have some extra)
  • Remaining half of rice mixture (a quarter of the rice..oh you get the idea now)
  • Second jar of salsa verde
  • Remaining half of cheese.

4. Bake at 375º for 25-35 minutes until cheese has melted and begins to brown a bit. Serve with sour cream and more chopped cilantro.

Note: Your pans will be full to bursting – that’s fine. But it’s still likely you’ll have a lot of leftover rice or other ingredients. Just set those out separately so people can make their own burritos or what not. If you have vegetarians coming over, I recommend making the rice with a delicious veggie broth or Rapunzel cubes, set out leftover rice, cheese, cilantro and tortillas and they can make their own veggie burritos.

You’ll be the belle (or beau) of the ball with these plump, cheesy, ricey, beefy offerings so learn how to take compliments graciously!

Filed Under: food, writing

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